Fuqi feipian (夫妻肺片, fūqī fèipiàn) translates literally as "husband-and-wife lung slices," which is both a lie and a poem. In the 1930s, a young couple named Guo Chaohua and Zhang Tianzheng sold cheap seasoned beef offal from a street stall in central Chengdu. Customers loved the dish so much that they nicknamed it after the couple; a newspaper later added the more elegant feipian ("lung slices") as a playful misnomer. In reality, the dish contains no lung at all: it is made from tender braised beef shank, tripe, beef tongue and beef heart, sliced paper-thin and drenched in a chili-oil dressing.
The art of the slice
Great fuqi feipian is about texture contrast. The offal is slowly braised until tender but still springy, then chilled and cut almost translucent. The sauce is built from freshly made chili oil, a splash of light soy, a touch of sugar and vinegar, Sichuan pepper powder, crushed roasted peanuts, sesame seeds and a handful of chopped celery or scallion. The result is cold, chewy, numbing-spicy, salty and nutty all at once. It is the ideal opening cold dish for a Sichuan banquet and the perfect late-night snack with a cold beer.
Ordering and pairing
Fuqi feipian is sold by weight in deli counters and by the plate in restaurants. A half portion (半份, bànfèn) is enough for two people. Pair it with rice, noodles or simply cold Yanjing beer. Do not confuse it with lǔ wèi (braised offal) from Cantonese stalls; the Sichuan version is unmistakably red, oily and numbing.
Practical Information
- Address: the famous Fuqi Feipian Restaurant (夫妻肺片总店) on Zongfu Road (总府路) near Chunxi Road is the historic outlet; smaller delis in wet markets sell equally authentic portions.
- Transport: Metro Line 2/3 to Chunxi Road, then walk 5 minutes south.
- Opening Hours: main shop around 09:00–21:30; deli counters 07:00–19:00.
- Cost: ¥48–78 for a restaurant plate; ¥40–60 per 250g at a deli.
- Tips: ask for shao la you (less chili oil) if you want a lighter version. Bring tissues; fingers will get oily.
Foreign diner tips
If the thought of offal scares you, try the beef-shank version first (牛肉, niúròu), which is just braised beef. The dish is served cold, so no waiting. It is one of the safest "strange" Sichuan dishes to order: most first-timers finish the plate and order another.
Pairings, Drinks and Table Etiquette
Chengdu meals almost always begin with tea. A pot of strong green tea (绿茶, lǜchá) or jasmine tea (茉莉花茶, mòlìhuāchá) clears the palate between spicy bites. Locals also order cold Yanjing beer (燕京啤酒, Yānjīng píjiǔ) or sugarcane juice (甘蔗汁, gānzhezhī) to round out the heat. When the bill arrives, watch how locals pay: the person who organized the meal usually insists, and gentle pushing of the receipt back and forth is part of the ritual, not a quarrel. If you are a guest, let your host pay; if you invited, claim the bill with a smile. Always wipe your chopsticks on the hot towel (热手巾, rè shǒujīn) before eating, and never plant chopsticks upright in the rice bowl—it resembles incense offered to the dead. If a dish is too spicy, do not reach for water; ask for the free iced sour-plum drink (酸梅汤, suānméitāng) or a bowl of plain rice. Chengdu is informal by Chinese standards: slurping, loud chatter and second helpings are all signs of a happy table.
