Jinli Ancient Street (锦里古街, Jǐnlǐ Gǔjiē) sits immediately to the east of Wuhou Shrine and is, for most first-time visitors, the most romantic image of old Chengdu. The lane is about 550 meters long, paved with bluestone, lined with grey-tiled wooden buildings strung with red lanterns, and packed from dusk until late with stalls selling folk crafts, street snacks and cheap souvenirs. Although the street was rebuilt in 2004 as a commercial heritage block, it is so convincingly atmospheric that few visitors guess it is mostly new.
Jinli translates literally as "brocade lane," a reference to Chengdu's ancient name, the "Brocade City" (锦城, Jǐngchéng), after the Shu brocade industry that flourished here during the Han and Tang dynasties. The lane deliberately evokes that era: wooden facades, cloth awnings, old-style signboards and continuous folk entertainment. In the evenings, Sichuan opera troupes perform excerpts on a small open-air stage, sugar painters spin toffee into animals on sticks, and mask dancers wander through the crowds for photo opportunities.
What to buy
- Folk toys: dough figurines (面人 miànrén), sugar paintings (糖画 tánghuà), bamboo dragonflies and clay whistles.
- Panda souvenirs: plush pandas, panda keychains, panda mooncakes and panda-shaped tea sets — cheaper here than at the airport.
- Sichuan snacks to take away: spicy rabbit heads, beef jerky, cured sausages and cured pork packed in vacuum bags.
- Crafts: Shu embroidery handkerchiefs, hand-painted opera masks, paper umbrellas and Sichuan-style shadow puppets.
- Tea and liquor: small tins of jasmine tea and mini bottles of Luzhou Laojiao or Wuliangye for gifts.
Eating is half the experience. Look out for the three classic Jinli snacks: three cannon (三大炮, sān dà pào), glutinous rice balls tossed into a tray with a loud thud; dan hong gao (蛋烘糕), small egg pancakes filled with sweet or savory paste; and bing fen (冰粉), the brown-sugar ice jelly that cools the Sichuan spice.
Practical Information
- Address: Wuhouci Street, Wuhou District (武侯区武侯祠大街231号附1号), east gate of Wuhou Shrine.
- Transport: Metro Line 3 to Gaoshengqiao Station, exit B, 10-minute walk; bus 57, 82 to Wuhouci stop.
- Opening Hours: the lane is open 24 hours; most stalls 09:00–22:30, busiest 18:00–21:30.
- Price level: budget; souvenirs ¥10–150, snacks ¥10–30 per item, embroidery ¥80–500.
- Payment: WeChat Pay and Alipay at most stalls; keep ¥50–100 in cash for the smallest carts.
- Tips: visit on a weekday evening; weekends can be so crowded you can barely walk.
Foreign visitor tips
English is limited but the signs use pinyin and pictures. Bargaining is expected at the souvenir stalls but not at the food stalls. The famous spicy rabbit head (兔头 tùtóu) is a local specialty — try it if adventurous; otherwise stick to the safer beef skewers. If you buy cured meats, ask for vacuum packing (真空 zhēnkōng) so they survive the flight home. Watch your bag; the crowds are thick and pickpocketing is known. A small tip: the lane looks best after 19:00 when the lanterns are on, but the open-air opera stage performs best before 20:00.
The street is wheelchair accessible in its central stretch, though the side alleys have uneven stone paving. Free public toilets sit at the midpoint of the lane, clearly signed in Chinese and pinyin. If you are visiting with children, the sugar-painting stall and the clay whistles are always a hit. On your way out, look back once: the red lanterns against the dark grey roof tiles are the postcard image of old Chengdu.
